The Never Ending Swamp: The Florida Trail Through Big Cypress National Preserve

This week I drove south to check off a very important section of the Florida Trail: Big Cypress National Preserve. 

This is the southern terminus of the trail, where my FKT journey will all begin for me in February. It’s also known as THE most difficult section of the entire trail, which just so happens to be in the very beginning. These first 30 miles go through the preserve and is extremely remote. When I say remote, I mean there are no “bail out” points for any of the 30 miles. You either keep going north or you turn around. But the further you go in, the further you get away from the two access points. 

What makes it the most challenging? To keep it plain and simple, it’s a swamp. The water levels can vary from shin deep to chest deep some years. Right now just so happen to be “dry conditions” meaning the first 20 miles were mildly wet / muddy / dry. However, the last ten miles were completely underwater at knee deep. (I’ve read old reports of this area being up to waist / chest deep , so knee deep seemed pretty nice!) 

This was the hardest 30 miles I have ever done. (This includes being harder than 30 milers that I have done unsupported in the mountains with 13,000 feet of vertical climbing gain). It took me over 11 hours to complete. Most hikers take 2-3 days to do all of this for reference. Those last ten miles that were knee deep took nearly six hours (35 minute mile pace for ten miles straight) I could feel my hamstrings and hip flexors on overdrive while pushing through this swamp. Not to mention the thought of all the critters lurking around me. 

It was a challenge, it was a struggle. Those last ten miles trudging through water felt never ending. They were painfully slow and miserable. My shoes and socks were full of sand and silt. I had to take them off to wash them out twice , only for them to fill back up after a couple more miles. It felt like rocks were pressing at toes in the front of my shoes. 

However the challenge was worth the beauty. I was rewarded with some of the most scenic and breathtaking views, going through this quiet wilderness that very few people ever get to experience. I was surrounded by tropical plants, vibrant wild flowers, cypress trees, pine forests and air plants in the swamps. 

This section is not for the faint of heart. The only people who go through here are the ones through hiking the entire Florida Trail or the crazy ultra runners who want a rugged adventure alone in the woods. I only saw one person while I was out there. He was a hiker who flew all the way from Switzerland just to hike the Florida Trail for the next two weeks, which made me feel honored to call this my home state. 

This trail doesn’t get as much recognition as the Appalachian Trail or Pacific Crest Trail, but in my opinion I really think it should. It is one of eleven national scenic trails in America, but the only one of its kind with such unique ecosystems. It is so different from any other long distance hiking trail that we have in the entire country. This place really is special, not to mention adventure!

I was surprised to see very little wildlife on this trek. I only saw one snake, a black racer, and a lot of birds such as the ibis, vultures, and multiple species of herons. Not a single alligator which is everyone’s biggest fear. I did however step on a turtle while going through the swamp! That scared me enough to make me jump. 

Big Cypress truly will humble you. It will chew you up, spit you out and make you face mental demons you didn’t even know you had. It was the exact experience that I needed and wanted. From a training perspective, getting to see and experience it for myself before I do the entire trail in February was essential. Not only do I know exactly what I’m getting myself into now, but now I have a better idea of how to pace and how I plan to train for this within the next month. Walking through knee deep water for six hours or more can either make or break you. I refuse to let it break me. Keep moving onward! 

I’m excited to get a second chance to go through big cypress when I go out on my entire Florida trail journey. A lot can change in the next month but hopefully this dry trend continues in my favor. 

Another month of training down. 630

Miles for the month of December. One more full month left ! The countdown is on and I cannot wait for what’s to come…

The rest of my favorite pictures below!!